Short answer
Yes. Remove the surrounding grout, break out and lift the broken tile, clean the substrate, set a matching tile in fresh thinset (or appropriate adhesive), let it cure, then grout the joints. It’s a manageable half-day DIY project plus curing time if you have the right tools and work carefully.
What to expect and prep
Replacing a single tile is straightforward if the underlying surface is sound. Plan for dust and sharp shards, and protect adjacent tiles and finishes. Have a spare tile on hand (ideally from the original batch) and matching grout. If the tile is in a wet area (shower) or over radiant heat, proceed cautiously—damage to membranes or wires is a common risk.
Tools and materials
- Replacement tile(s)
- Grout to match existing (sanded for joints ≥1/8", unsanded for <1/8")
- Thinset mortar (preferred) or premixed mastic for dry interior walls only
- Notched trowel (size below)
- Margin trowel and putty knife/scraper
- Carbide grout saw or oscillating multi-tool with grout-removal blade
- Drill with masonry bit (1/4–3/8") and/or angle grinder with diamond blade (optional)
- Cold chisel and small hammer; suction cup lifter (optional)
- Tile spacers or wedges
- Grout float and grout sponge; microfiber cloth
- Painter’s tape, drop cloths, shop vacuum
- Safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves, ear protection, N95/respirator
Trowel/spacing quick guide:
Tile ≤ 6": 3/16" V-notch or 1/4" x 1/4" square notch
Tile 8–12": 1/4" x 1/4" square notch
Tile > 12": 1/4" x 3/8" square notch
Grout joint: match existing (common 1/16"–3/16")
Thinset cure: typically ~24 hours before grouting (check bag)
Step-by-step
1) Protect and mark the area
- Mask off adjacent tile edges with painter’s tape.
- Lay a drop cloth and wear PPE. Score the grout lines with a utility knife to reduce chipping.
2) Remove the grout around the broken tile
- Use a carbide grout saw or an oscillating multi-tool to remove grout on all sides. Go slowly and keep the blade centered to avoid chipping neighboring tiles. Remove grout down to the substrate so the tile is fully isolated.
3) Break the tile from the center
- Place painter’s tape over the cracked tile to contain fragments.
- Drill several holes near the center to weaken it. Tap a cold chisel in the drilled area, working from the center out. Pry up small pieces. Avoid levering against adjacent tiles.
- If pieces are stubborn, carefully use an angle grinder with a diamond blade to score an “X,” then chisel. Control dust with a vacuum and mask.
4) Clean the setting bed
- Scrape off old thinset/adhesive with a putty knife or chisel until the surface is flat and consistent with surrounding areas.
- Vacuum dust thoroughly. On shower pans or membranes, be gentle—don’t gouge the waterproofing. If you see movement, cracks, or damaged substrate, address that before reinstalling.
5) Dry-fit the replacement tile
- Test the tile in the opening. Check height with a straightedge across neighboring tiles to prevent lippage (edges at different heights). Adjust by removing more thinset or planning to increase mortar thickness.
6) Mix and apply mortar
- Mix thinset to a creamy, non-slumping consistency per the bag.
- Key a thin coat onto the substrate with the flat side of the trowel. Then comb fresh thinset with the notch size appropriate for your tile.
- Back-butter the tile (thin coat on the back) for better coverage, especially for floor tiles or porcelain.
7) Set the tile
- Press the tile into place with a slight slide/twist to collapse ridges. Use spacers to match adjacent joints.
- Check flushness with a straightedge and adjust while the mortar is fresh.
- Clean any squeeze-out from joints with a damp sponge or a margin trowel edge.
- Let cure undisturbed per product directions (usually ~24 hours).
8) Grout
- Mix grout to peanut-butter consistency. Use a rubber float to pack grout diagonally across joints.
- After 10–15 minutes, wipe diagonally with a well-wrung sponge. Rinse frequently, but avoid overwashing.
- Buff haze with a microfiber cloth after light drying. Protect from traffic and moisture as directed.
- For corners or changes of plane, use color-matched silicone caulk instead of grout.
9) Seal (if applicable)
- If using cementitious grout, apply a penetrating sealer after full cure (often 48–72 hours). Epoxy grout doesn’t need sealing.
Safety
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask or respirator, especially when cutting/grinding.
- Control dust with a shop vac and wet methods where possible.
- Unplug power tools when changing blades. Keep hands clear of cutting paths.
Tips for best results
- Match grout color ahead of time; brands vary. Buy small sample packs if unsure.
- Radiant heat floors: verify wire/pipe layout before drilling or chiseling. Non-contact voltage testers won’t detect heating wires—consult the heating system plan.
- For small wall repairs in dry, non-splash areas, a quality premixed mastic can save time. For floors, large tiles, or wet areas, use polymer-modified thinset.
- Use a suction cup to test and adjust tile height without shifting spacers.
- Aim for at least 80–95% mortar coverage (95% for floors/wet areas). Back-butter to reach this.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Leaving old thinset high spots—this causes a proud tile. Take time to flatten the bed.
- Not removing all grout around the tile—this can crack adjacent tiles during removal.
- Rushing cure times—grouting too soon can weaken the bond.
- Overwashing grout—leads to color fade and low joints.
- Using mastic in showers or floors—can fail under moisture or load.
Time and cost
- Time: 2–4 hours of work plus 24 hours for cure and 30–60 minutes for grouting the next day.
- Cost: Replacement tile (varies), thinset ($10–20 small bag), grout ($10–15), disposable blades ($10–20). If you need tool upgrades (oscillating tool, trowels, float), budget $50–150.
When to call a pro
- The tile is on a waterproofed shower pan/wet room and you’re unsure about the membrane integrity.
- There’s movement, cracks in the substrate, or multiple tiles are hollow/loose—may indicate a larger failure.
- Radiant heating or embedded plumbing is under the tile and you lack a layout map.
- Natural stone with tight tolerances where lippage control is critical.
Handled carefully, a single-tile replacement restores the look and function without redoing the whole area. Take it slow, protect neighboring tiles, and let the materials cure fully for a long-lasting fix.