Short answer
Pick a dehumidifier based on basement size, moisture severity, and temperature. For most damp basements (500–1,200 sq ft, 55–65°F), a 50–70 pint/day unit (rated under DOE 2019) is the sweet spot. If the space is very damp or larger than 1,200 sq ft, bump to 70–120 pints or choose a dedicated low-temperature “basement/crawlspace” model with auto-defrost. If there’s standing water or active leaks, fix those first; no dehumidifier can keep up with liquid water. Consider a ducted whole-house unit if your basement is finished and you want quieter, integrated control.
How sizing works (and why DOE 2019 matters)
- Rating standard: Current dehumidifiers are rated under DOE 2019 at 65°F/60% RH (more realistic for basements). A “50-pint” unit today is stronger at basement temps than a pre-2019 “70-pint” on paper.
- Match capacity to moisture load: Size is about moisture load, not just square footage. Sources like wet walls, laundry, showers, or poor air sealing increase the needed capacity.
- Target humidity: Aim for 45–50% RH. Above ~60% invites mold.
Quick picker
- Mildly damp (musty smell, occasional clammy feel): 30–50 pint up to ~800 sq ft.
- Very damp (condensation on pipes/windows, frequent musty odor): 50–70 pint up to ~1,200 sq ft.
- Wet (damp spots on walls/floor, laundry room use, frequent infiltration): 70–120 pint or a basement/crawlspace unit.
- Cold basements (<55°F often): Choose a low-temperature basement/crawlspace model with hot-gas defrost; consider a small desiccant unit only if the area is very cold and compact.
Example: An 800 sq ft basement with 7.5 ft ceilings that smells musty and hits 65% RH in summer usually does well with a 50–60 pint DOE 2019 unit. If you run laundry down there or notice wall dampness, go 70+ pint.
Types of dehumidifiers for basements
- Portable refrigerant (50–70 pint): Affordable, easy to place. Good for most basements that stay above ~55°F.
- Basement/crawlspace (70–120+ pint, low-temp): Boxy, high-cfm, hot-gas defrost, better coils. Perform well at 41–55°F. Often support ducting. Higher cost, higher durability.
- Whole-house ducted: Ties into HVAC; very quiet in living spaces with excellent control. Great for finished basements; higher upfront and usually pro install.
- Desiccant: Works well in cold temps but lower capacity for the price. Typically for small, cold zones rather than full basements.
Specs to look for
Capacity (DOE 2019): 50–120 pints/day
Operating temp: 41–95°F (look for low-temp performance)
Drain options: 3/4" GHT continuous drain; internal pump optional
Defrost: Auto/hot-gas defrost for cold spaces
Filter: Washable pre-filter; easy access
Controls: Digital humidistat, continuous mode, auto-restart
Efficiency: ENERGY STAR certified if available
Noise: ~50–60 dB for portables; lower with ducted units
Power: ~500–800 W (check 15 A circuit capacity)
Step-by-step: picking and setting up the right unit
- Assess the space
- Measure area (length × width) and note ceiling height.
- Use a hygrometer (ToolStash: digital RH meters) to record RH over a few days.
- Check for water entry: foundation cracks, wet walls, failed gutters, or plumbing leaks.
- Choose capacity and type
- Use the Quick picker above; if your basement is below 55°F or very damp, select a low-temp basement model.
- Plan drainage
- Best: floor drain with gravity hose. If no drain, choose a unit with an internal pump or add a condensate pump.
- Placement
- Center or near the most humid area with at least 12–18 inches of clearance around the unit. Keep doors open for circulation.
- Initial dry-out
- Run on continuous mode for 48–72 hours, then set to 45–50% RH.
- Maintenance
- Clean filter monthly. Verify hose slope. Inspect pump every few months.
Tools and materials
- Hygrometer/data logger
- Tape measure
- 3/4" garden hose for continuous drain
- Optional condensate pump with vinyl tubing
- Small level and anti-vibration pads
- Flashlight for inspecting foundation and joists
Safety and code considerations
- Use a properly grounded, preferably GFCI-protected outlet (required in many unfinished basements).
- Avoid extension cords. If unavoidable, use a heavy-duty, grounded cord rated above the unit’s amp draw and keep it off the floor.
- Keep the unit level and away from standing water. Do not operate around active leaks.
- If you see widespread mold (>10 sq ft), wear PPE (N95, gloves, goggles) and consider calling a remediation pro.
Tips for best results
- Fix sources first: clear gutters, extend downspouts 6–10 ft, improve grading, seal obvious air leaks (rim joist, sill plate).
- Use a small fan to improve air mixing in partitioned basements.
- If tying into a sump for drainage, route hose so it can’t siphon back; add a check valve if needed.
- In very cold seasons, reduce run time if RH is already below 40% to avoid overdrying wood.
Common mistakes
- Undersizing the unit, leading to constant running and still-high RH.
- Ignoring temperature: Standard portables struggle under ~55°F without robust defrost control.
- Poor placement: Jamming into a corner or closet reduces airflow and performance.
- No continuous drain: Relying on the bucket leads to overflow risk and inconsistent operation.
- Expecting it to fix leaks: Dehumidifiers remove vapor, not bulk water intrusion.
Cost and what to expect
- 50–70 pint portable: $200–$400
- Basement/crawlspace low-temp: $800–$1,400
- Whole-house: $1,500–$2,500 plus $500–$1,500 install
- Condensate pump: $60–$120; Hygrometer: $10–$25
- Setup time: 30–90 minutes for a portable; half-day for ducted/low-temp units
When to call a pro
- Recurring puddles, wall seepage, or RH >70% even with a large low-temp unit.
- Foundation cracks, failing interior drain tile, or need for a sump pump.
- You want a ducted whole-house dehumidifier tied into HVAC.
- Large mold growth or persistent musty odor after drying to 45–50% RH.
With the right size and a smart setup, you’ll keep your basement at a steady 45–50% RH, protect finishes and stored items, and reduce mold risk. Start with a hygrometer, fix any water entry, and match a DOE 2019-rated unit to your space and temperature. If your basement runs cold or very damp, lean toward a low-temp basement model with hot-gas defrost and a reliable drain path.