How can I inspect for termite damage and when should I call a professional?

Short answer

Look for mud tubes on foundations, soft or hollow-sounding wood, blistered paint, discarded wings near windows, and pellet-like droppings. Probe suspect areas with a screwdriver and use a flashlight and moisture meter in crawlspaces, around plumbing, and along baseboards. Call a professional if you see live termites, multiple active mud tubes, significant damage, or if parts of your home are inaccessible or on a slab. Professional treatment is strongly recommended for any confirmed activity.

What to look for and where

Termites can be active for months before you notice damage. Focus on these signs:

• Mud tubes (subterranean termites): Pencil-width, soil-colored tubes on foundation walls, piers, sill plates, and inside crawlspaces.
• Damaged wood: Feels soft, sounds hollow, or reveals thin surface layers with honeycomb-like galleries beneath, often packed with mud.
• Swarmers and wings: Black/brown winged termites in spring, or piles of equal-length wings on window sills and near doors.
• Frass (drywood termites): Small, hard pellets resembling coarse sand or coffee grounds, often in little piles below kick-out holes.
• Blistered/bubbling paint or rippled drywall: Moisture and hidden tunneling.
• Sagging floors or sticking doors/windows: Possible structural compromise.

High-risk areas

• Exterior: Foundation, slab cracks, expansion joints, stucco weep screed, deck posts, fence attachments, any wood-to-soil contact.
• Interior: Baseboards, window/door trim, beneath sinks, around plumbing penetrations, tubs, and showers.
• Crawlspace/attic: Sill plates, rim joists, beams, joists, subfloor, roof fascias, and truss heel joints.

Quick specs and thresholds
- Mud tubes: ~1/8–1/2 in diameter
- Wood moisture: >20% = conducive to termites
- Soil-to-siding clearance: 6 in minimum
- Firewood: store 20+ ft from house, off the ground

Tools and materials

• Bright flashlight or headlamp
• Flat screwdriver or awl (probing)
• Moisture meter (pin-type preferred for wood)
• Mirror (inspection mirror) and knee pads
• Ladder for siding/eaves
• Utility knife (to open small suspect areas, if needed)
• Camera/phone for documentation
• PPE: gloves, eye protection, N95/respirator for dusty crawlspaces

If you’re shopping, look for a pin moisture meter, compact headlamp, and a stiff inspection probe in the ToolStash catalog.

Step-by-step inspection

1. Walk the exterior.
   • Check the foundation line, porch steps, and where utilities enter. Look for mud tubes and wood-soil contact.
   • Verify grading: soil should slope away from the house; downspouts should discharge 6–10 ft away.
2. Inspect decks and fences attached to the house.
   • Probe posts at the base. Posts should sit on concrete piers or anchors—not buried.
3. Check the garage and slab edges.
   • Look at expansion joints and the base of drywall near the slab.
4. Move indoors.
   • Inspect baseboards, window sills, door frames, and plumbing access panels. Tap or probe suspicious wood lightly.
   • Look for wings/frass on window sills.
5. Crawlspace/attic (if safe and accessible).
   • Probe sill plates, rim joists, and beams every few feet.
   • Look up for tubes on piers and along foundation walls.
   • Measure wood moisture and note any areas >20%.
6. Confirm activity.
   • If you find a mud tube, break a 1-inch section. If it’s repaired within 24–72 hours, the colony is active.
7. Document.
   • Take clear photos with a ruler for scale. Note locations and moisture readings.

Time needed: 60–120 minutes for an average home, more with crawlspace/attic access.

Safety considerations

• Wear gloves and eye protection; crawlspaces can contain nails, sharp debris, and animal droppings.
• Use an N95/respirator in dusty, moldy, or rodent-affected spaces.
• Practice ladder safety and avoid probing load-bearing members aggressively.
• If you suspect asbestos or lead paint where you might cut or open surfaces, stop and consult a pro.

Tips for best results

• Do inspections annually, or after heavy rains or a spring swarm.
• Fix moisture first: repair leaks, improve ventilation, clean gutters, extend downspouts.
• Maintain clearance between soil and siding; remove mulch piled against the house.
• Keep firewood and lumber off the ground and away from the structure.
• Consider simple monitors (non-chemical wood stakes) as DIY early warnings; professional bait systems require consistent servicing.

Common mistakes

• Misidentifying ants as termites: Termite swarmers have straight antennae and equal-length wings; ants have elbowed antennae and unequal wings.
• Sealing mud tubes without treatment: This hides the problem; the colony remains.
• Spraying visible insects with over-the-counter aerosol only: Kills a few workers but doesn’t reach the colony.
• Over-probing structural members: Can weaken already compromised wood.
• Ignoring moisture: Without moisture control, reinfestation is likely.

When to call a professional

Call a licensed pest control company if any of the following apply:
- You find live termites, active mud tube repairs, or widespread frass/wings.
- There’s structural damage (sagging floors, spongy subfloor, compromised beams).
- You have slab-on-grade, complex additions, or inaccessible areas.
- You’re unsure whether damage is termites vs. carpenter ants/carpenter bees.
- You’ve had a swarm indoors.

What a pro provides and typical costs

• Inspection: Often free to $150, includes detailed report.
• Subterranean treatments: Trench-and-rod liquid termiticide around the perimeter: roughly $800–$2,500 depending on linear footage. Bait systems: $1,000–$2,500 plus $200–$400/year monitoring.
• Drywood treatments: Localized injections $300–$900 per area; whole-structure fumigation or heat $1,500–$3,500+ depending on size.
• Repairs: Carpentry costs vary; budget for sistering joists or replacing sill plates if needed.

DIY next steps if no activity is found

• Reduce conducive conditions: moisture control, clearance, and wood storage.
• Seal exterior gaps and foundation penetrations.
• Treat exposed, sound framing with a borate solution (e.g., Bora-Care) in accessible areas; follow label directions and local regulations.
• Reinspect quarterly for the first year, then annually.

If you do confirm activity, professional treatment is the most reliable path to eliminate the colony and protect your structure long-term.