Short answer
Yes. You can significantly cut drafts and reduce noise by adding weatherstripping, sealing gaps with caulk/backer rod, tuning the window hardware, and (optionally) adding an interior storm or shrink film. These are budget-friendly upgrades you can DIY in an afternoon without replacing the window.
What actually helps (and why)
Drafts come from air gaps around sashes, stops, and the frame-to-wall joint. Noise slips through the same gaps and through the glass. Sealing joints and adding a secondary interior barrier greatly improves comfort and sound. For most homeowners, a layered approach works best:
- Tighten and weatherstrip the operable parts
- Seal stationary cracks with caulk/backer rod
- Add a seasonal interior film or permanent interior storm insert for noticeable sound reduction
Materials and tools
- Weatherstripping (choose by window type and gap size):
- V-strip (vinyl or spring bronze) for double-hung jambs and meeting rails
- Adhesive foam or silicone bulb compression strip for casements and fixed stops
- Replacement brush pile for sliders
- Caulk: exterior-grade paintable acrylic-latex for trim, 100% silicone for wet areas, and acoustical sealant for sound-critical interior joints
- Backer rod (1/4–5/8 in.)
- Low-expansion "window & door" spray foam for large hidden gaps
- Rope caulk (temporary) for seasonal sealing
- Optional: interior shrink film kit or acrylic interior storm panel
- Cleaning supplies: denatured alcohol, rags
- Tools: tape measure, utility knife, scissors or tin snips, putty knife/5-in-1, caulk gun, pry bar (small), drill/screwdriver, heat gun or hair dryer
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, dust mask; lead-safe practices for pre-1978 paint
Choose the right weatherstripping size
Gap guide (approx.):
- 1/32–1/16 in: spring bronze or thin V-strip
- 1/16–1/8 in: medium V-strip / thin foam
- 1/8–3/16 in: medium foam or silicone bulb
- 3/16–3/8 in: thick foam/bulb + backer rod where appropriate
- >3/8 in (non-moving joint): backer rod + sealant or low-expansion foam
Step-by-step: reduce drafts and noise
1) Inspect and test
- On a windy day, use incense/smoke or a thermal camera to find leaks around the sash edges, meeting rails, lock points, and trim-to-wall seams.
- Check that the sash lock pulls the meeting rails tightly together. Add or reposition locks if there’s play.
2) Prep and clean
- Remove old brittle weatherstripping and failed caulk with a putty knife.
- Clean surfaces with alcohol so adhesives bond well.
3) Weatherstrip the operable parts
- Double-hung: install V-strip along the vertical jamb channels and at the meeting rails. Add a thin foam or bulb strip at the top of the upper sash and bottom of the lower sash.
- Casement: apply silicone bulb/compression strip to the stop where the sash closes. Replace worn hinge-side gaskets if present.
- Slider: replace brush pile in the tracks and add foam/bulb at the interlock if needed.
- Trim pieces carefully; avoid binding. Test operation after each side.
4) Seal fixed gaps
- Small cracks (≤1/4 in.): run a steady bead of paintable acrylic-latex or acoustical sealant at interior trim joints and where the stool meets the wall. Tool the bead for full contact.
- Wider joints: insert backer rod first, then caulk. Around the rough opening behind interior trim, use low-expansion window/door foam—apply lightly to avoid bowing the frame.
- Exterior: caulk between trim and siding, except leave drainage paths and weep holes open.
5) Address glass and glazing
- If putty around single-pane glass is cracked, re-glaze with window glazing compound. For double-pane units with failed seals (condensation between panes), DIY sealing won’t fix it—see "When to call a pro."
6) Optional: interior film or storm insert (big boost for noise)
- Shrink film kit: quick, inexpensive ($12–25 per window), and cuts drafts noticeably. It also helps with high-frequency noise.
- Interior storm panel: acrylic or glass insert with compression fit or magnetic frame. Stronger noise and energy improvement than film; DIY kits run ~$150–350 per window, custom pro inserts ~$250–500.
Total time: 30–90 minutes per window for weatherstripping/caulk; add 20–30 minutes for shrink film.
Safety
- Pre-1978 paint may contain lead. Use lead-safe work practices (PPE, containment, HEPA vac). Avoid dry sanding.
- Ventilate when using solvents, acoustical sealant, or spray foam.
- Use only low-expansion foam around windows; standard foam can warp frames.
- Ladder and utility-knife safety.
Tips for best results
- Warm adhesive-backed strips to room temp for better tack; apply above 40°F.
- Degrease vinyl/painted surfaces before sticking weatherstrip.
- Adjust or add sash locks to pull meeting rails tight—this boosts both seal and security.
- Don’t block weep holes on vinyl/aluminum windows; they drain water.
- Heavy, lined curtains or cellular shades help with both drafts and noise when closed.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Caulking a sash shut by sealing over moving joints.
- Using high-expansion foam around the frame (can bow jambs and jam sashes).
- Skipping cleaning—adhesive weatherstrip will peel.
- Sealing only the interior while exterior gaps funnel water into the wall.
- Choosing weatherstrip that’s too thick; the window won’t latch properly.
Rough costs
- Weatherstripping: $10–25 per window
- Caulk: $6–12/tube; acoustical $8–12
- Backer rod: $5–10/pack
- Low-expansion foam: $7–12/can
- Shrink film kit: $12–25
- Interior storm insert: $150–500
When to call a pro
- Rot or structural movement around the frame
- Fogged double-pane glass (failed IGU seal)
- Extensive re-glazing on historic windows, or desire for custom low-profile interior storms
- Lead paint stabilization you’re not comfortable handling
With the right weatherstripping, careful sealing, and an optional interior barrier, you can make older windows far more comfortable and quieter without the cost and disruption of full replacement.