Short answer
Yes—you can build a solid ballpark before calling contractors by doing a structured walkthrough, creating a line‑item scope, and applying realistic unit costs per square foot or per fixture. For a fully gutted house in average condition, many owners see total rebuild costs in the range of $120–$250 per finished square foot depending on region, finish level, and structural/MEP upgrades. Start with a baseline, break it into trades, and add a 15–25% contingency.
How to structure your estimate
Think in layers so you don’t miss hidden costs:
- Structure and envelope (framing, roof, windows/doors, siding)
- MEP rough‑ins (electrical, plumbing, HVAC)
- Insulation, drywall, and paint
- Interior finishes (flooring, trim, cabinets, counters, tile)
- Fixtures and appliances
- Permits, testing/abatement, waste disposal, and contingencies
Step-by-step guide
1) Define scope and quantities
- Walk the house and note rooms, ceiling heights, and special conditions (sagging floors, old knob-and-tube, undersized panel, rotten sills).
- Measure floor area with a laser and sketch a simple floor plan.
- Count windows/doors, plumbing fixtures, and linear feet of cabinets and baseboard.
2) Apply quick unit costs (national ballpark)
Use these ranges to start. Adjust +/− for your market and finish quality.
- Structural/framing repairs: $6–$18/sf of floor area for new interior partitions, blocking, and minor leveling. Major structural work may add $10k–$40k+.
- Roofing (asphalt): $4–$8/sf roof area.
- Siding (fiber cement/vinyl): $6–$12/sf wall area.
- Windows: $500–$1,200 each installed (typical vinyl), more for wood or large units.
- Exterior doors: $900–$2,000 each installed (entry). Interior prehung: $200–$600.
- Electrical rewire: $6–$14/sf floor area (includes new devices and lighting rough‑in). Service upgrade to 200A: +$2,000–$4,500.
- Plumbing rough‑in/repipe: $7–$18/sf floor area (add for extra baths or complex layouts). Water heater: $1,200–$3,500.
- HVAC (new system + ducts as needed): $8,000–$18,000 for a typical 1,500–2,000 sf house. Mini‑splits: ~$4,000–$12,000 depending on zones.
- Insulation: $1.50–$3.50/sf of wall/ceiling area (batt/cellulose; spray foam is higher).
- Drywall hang/tape/texture: $2.00–$4.00/sf of wall/ceiling area. Quick takeoff: wall+ceiling area ≈ 3.5–4.2 × floor area.
- Interior paint (pro labor + materials): $1.50–$3.00/sf of wall/ceiling area.
- Flooring installed:
- LVP/laminate: $3–$7/sf
- Prefinished hardwood: $6–$12/sf
- Tile (bath/kitchen): $12–$30/sf
- Cabinets + counters:
- Stock cabinets: $150–$300/linear ft
- Semi-custom: $300–$600/lf
- Countertops: laminate $25–$50/sf, quartz/granite $60–$120/sf installed
- Tile showers: $2,500–$7,500 each depending on size and complexity.
- Fixtures and trim: $2–$5/sf floor area (varies widely).
- Dumpster and hauling: $400–$700 per 30‑yd container; a full gut often needs 2–4.
- Permits/design/engineering: 2–6% of construction cost in many municipalities.
3) Create a simple line‑item spreadsheet
- Columns: Scope item, quantity, unit, low cost, high cost, midpoint, notes.
- Sum by trade, then total. Add contingency (15–25%).
4) Sanity‑check with a per‑square‑foot baseline
- Low finish, limited structural changes: $120–$160/sf
- Mid‑range, full MEP upgrades: $160–$210/sf
- Higher finish or complex structural work: $210–$250+/sf
Example mini‑estimate (quick math)
For a 1,800 sf gutted house, 8′ ceilings, mid‑range finishes:
Drywall area ≈ 1,800 sf × 3.8 = 6,840 sf
Drywall @ $3.00/sf = $20,520
Electrical @ $10/sf floor area = $18,000
Plumbing @ $12/sf floor area = $21,600
HVAC system = $12,000
Insulation @ $2.50/sf × 6,840 = $17,100
Flooring (mix) @ $7/sf × 1,800 = $12,600
Windows: 16 × $800 = $12,800
Kitchen (18 lf cabs @ $450/lf + quartz): ~$14,000
Two baths (mid‑range): 2 × $7,000 = $14,000
Paint @ $2.25/sf × 6,840 = $15,390
Doors/trim/fixtures allowance = $9,000
Dumpster/permits/misc = $4,500
Subtotal ≈ $171,510
Contingency 20% ≈ $34,300
Projected total ≈ $205,800 (~$114/sf) before exterior siding/roof if needed
Adjust for your scope and market.
Tools and materials for the takeoff
- Laser distance meter and measuring tape
- Moisture meter (check framing, subfloors)
- Outlet tester and circuit tracer
- Stud finder and inspection mirror/borescope
- Thermal camera or IR thermometer (helps spot missing insulation/air leaks)
- Notepad or spreadsheet app; phone camera for photo notes
- PPE: N95/respirator, gloves, eye protection, headlamp
Safety and code considerations
- Test for lead paint and asbestos before sanding, cutting, or demo—especially in homes pre‑1990. Abatement can materially impact costs.
- Confirm gas, water, and power are safely shut and capped during inspection.
- Structural concerns (sagging beams, rot at sills, termite damage) need evaluation before you price finishes.
- Plan for required permits and inspections; code upgrades (GFCI/AFCI, egress windows, smoke/CO detectors) affect scope and cost.
Tips for best results
- Use allowances for finish‑sensitive items (tile, lighting, plumbing fixtures) and track decisions against them.
- Apply a regional multiplier. Many markets vary ±20–40%. Check local building departments, lumber yards, or cost guides for calibration.
- Separate labor and materials in your sheet—helps compare apples to apples with contractor quotes.
- Group high‑impact areas: kitchens and baths drive cost; budget them carefully.
- Photograph and label every room; annotate dimensions on photos for quick recall.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Underestimating wall/ceiling area for drywall and paint—use the multiplier method.
- Ignoring service upgrades (200A panel, new sewer line) that older homes often need.
- Forgetting site protection, temporary heat, or dehumidification for drywall/finish stages.
- Pricing on ideal access only; tight spaces and plaster demo increase labor.
- Skipping contingency; old houses always hide surprises.
When to call a pro
- Structural engineer: visible sagging, cracked beams, foundation issues, or removing load‑bearing walls.
- Licensed electrician/plumber: service upgrades, new main panel, gas line moves, or whole‑house repipe.
- HVAC designer: Manual J/S/D sizing to avoid short‑cycling or comfort issues.
- Environmental pro: suspected asbestos, lead, or mold remediation.
Building a disciplined pre‑quote estimate equips you to set a realistic budget, scope the work clearly, and evaluate contractor bids with confidence. Start with measured quantities, use conservative unit costs, and keep a healthy contingency so you’re not surprised later.